Wiring is the Most Expensive Purchase
ROI - Understanding the Pitfalls

Your ROI (return on investment) can be dreadful on audio cables so it pays to get it right the first time. The average mall music store charges a high mark-up on a poor cable as they know the average customer cannot tell the difference. Learn more, as if you don’t every cable you buy will need to be replaced as you learn your audio craft alongside Celtic harp music.

Sweetwater.com is a major Internet audio supplier. Over 90% of their returned goods issues can be traced to faulty wiring. Chances are that in live audio a breakdown will be a cable gone bad. Most of your liability issues at a concert will be a result of cables and tripping. A lot of system noise can come from cabling. Almost any cable you buy has 100% depreciation immediately and will only be fit for a “throw in” when selling something else when you no longer want it. So it pays to buy well the first time out.

Every “deal” cable I bought in my first 3 years of audio had to be replaced quickly at a 100% loss. Every quality cable I have bought since continues in full time use for up to 6 years without failure.

So what makes a good cable? Quality materials and components, excellent design, attention to detail and a reputable brand name all count. The best cables also come with a recommendation from a live audio professional who uses them daily. These guys know the meaning of reliability. Not so for your guitar store jockey. It pays to do your homework and shop around locally and on the Internet. Once a good source is found stick with it.

The easiest way to look for a bad cable is to see if it has memory. “Memory” is where the cable will not lie flat as it remembers its previous twists and turns. A good cable easily lies flat - an attribute that is expensive to promulgate. A good cable probably uses Neutrik connectors. Learn to recognise them.

A good cable comes with a warrantee of up to 10 years. Hard to prove their age yes, but it still counts. And a good cable comes from a retailer who stocks and sells a large number of different styles/types of cables and possibly at different market levels. You need to find a pro seller and stick by him/her.

Beware of audiophile cable companies for home stereos - it is all done with snake oil. The most expensive is not always the best.

For 120 Volt cables I use 14/3 and 16/3 gauge flexible to -40*C

For Speaker Cables I use a flexible generic 14 gauge with a black rubber outer layer

For mic and line level cables I use the Digiflex - Tourflex Series

A good intermediate brand is Rapco.

Remember to duct tape down all loose cables in public traffic areas. Always carry a useable spare for all your cables - it is a must. Having a few connection adapters /interconnects can create solutions in a hurry. I use a multi-meter at home and a Rolls Audio CT1 cable tester on the road. There are many tester equivalents available.

Happy hunting. Let me know your successes and failures. I will add your knowledge and experience to the “mix” if it can add to the effectiveness of these articles. The rest of the Celtic Harp Amplification Series is available here.

Stephen Vardy
Harpsound Audio
[email protected]